Yes, it's basically just a big ol' sushi roll, but if you love sushi as much as I do, Sushirrito (59 New Montgomery St., 415-495-7655) is a must stop. I've been avoiding the lunchtime hot spot since it opened in January, because the lines out the door rival those of The Sentinel down the block. But yesterday, I finally braved the still-long lines, and I couldn't have been happier.

I started with the El Tigre roll ($10.50), which features hand-line-caught ahi tuna selected, like all of Sushirrito's seafood, for its sustainability. Going in, my biggest fear was that the sushi rice would grow in proportion to the roll. Thankfully, that's not the case at Sushirrito, which was founded by a local entrepreneur named Peter Yen with food by former Roy's executive chef Ty Mahler.

Each made-to-order 'rito starts with a nori wrap lined with a thin layer of rice, just enough to hold everything together but not nearly as much rice as you'll find on a typical burrito. Mostly, the filling features a rainbow of veggies and Asian and Latin tastes. The El Tigre combines a generous slice of tuna with carrots, cabbage, cucumber, radishes, greens, and delightfully crunchy rice chips. Along with a basic guacamole, you get a healthy dose of spicy honey mustard sauce. Remarkably, the roll was easy to bite into, neat to eat, and incredibly filling. I'd happily wait in that line to taste my next Sushirrito.